Arriving at Polo House on the Golden Mile it is always reassuring to see Charlie the doorman, in full livery to welcome you. Reminds me of the top class establishments in the West End from years ago. A lovely touch.
The test of a quality establishment is attention to detail – Barrie – who is fanatical about bottles of water being opened in front of guests at the table pointed out this fact to the very attentive waiter, why insisted on changing the bottle and glass whilst apologising profusely. Whilst Barrie has no objection to drinking chilled tap water, he does not wish to pay €7 a bottle for the privilege.
Regular readers will know that Polo House has been my favourite establishment since opening just over a couple of years ago. Now its time to put their new menu to the test.
Three breads arrived. Corn, black olive and wholemeal. Accompanied by marinated olives, cream cheese with black olives and capers and butter. Then a cherry Gazpacho with parmesan, a brilliant combination.
Chef had made us a tasting selection from the new menu. Ronda goats cheese with fresh figs and a red wine and mango sauce. This worked well, and got the thumbs up from everyone. Ilya, the Sommelier who clearly knows his wines recommended a Gewürztraminer, an Alsace from France with high potential and a leech bouquet which accompanied the starters brilliantly.
Then a scallop in saffron sauce with vanilla foam. I don’t get foam, and the vanilla, to be honest, was a poor choice of accompaniment for seafood. Otherwise, immaculately prepared and served. Chef should go with James Hewitt’s suggestion of serving this with a quail’s egg.
We were then presented with Dover sole with a lobster reduction and asparagus. Everyone agreed this was totally divine. Meanwhile, we were being looked after very well indeed by Monica and the staff. Top class service as always at Polo House.
We were then presented with pork belly. I love pork belly, but it is an easy dish to muck up. This time it was brilliant, served with apple puree, tarragon and wine sauce, great crackling, but probably could have been done with cooking just a tad slower. Finally, some duck served in an orange sauce with turnip. Totally brilliant and immaculately presented.
For pudding, Polo House Mess, lemon Syllabub and Crème Brulee. The best. Chef Juan Luis Perez clearly knows what he is doing. Polo House, headed by James Hewitt and his excellent team have, if anything, improved further since my last review and it is with great pleasure that I stamp them firmly as one of the Coast’s leading establishments.
I award them, together with only two others in the past few years the coveted five forks.
Service Cleanliness Food Overall
Polo House – Marbella – restaurant and club
Bulevard Principe Alfonso Von Hohenlohe
TEL. 952 900 380
Reservations can be made on their website www.polohousemarbella.com